[Sunbeam Talbot Email List] door adjustment: coming to terms

wes.stewart at sunbeamsaloon.com wes.stewart at sunbeamsaloon.com
Sun Jan 26 14:36:18 EST 2014


Use a 3/8 breaker bar. Use of a ratchet will cause temporary loss of sanity.
Works a treat.

WES

> On January 26, 2014 at 11:04 AM "wes.stewart at sunbeamsaloon.com"
> <wes.stewart at sunbeamsaloon.com> wrote:
> 
>  Kick Panel off, Now I see that this adjustment would not use shims at all.
>  Looks like a matter of loosening all 12 fasteners, then fetteling the door
> into submission.
>  Any methods/tips?
> 
>  WES
> 
>   > > On January 26, 2014 at 10:47 AM "wes.stewart at sunbeamsaloon.com"
>   > > <wes.stewart at sunbeamsaloon.com> wrote:
> > 
> >   My DHC has horribly fitting windows. the gap between front and rear side
> > lights lets a lot of rain in.
> > 
> >   I showed pictures to Pete Woodall and he observed that the front window
> > was not looking quite right, needed to be further inboard.
> >   I set about the task today of making adjustment and made an interesting
> > discovery.
> > 
> >   It appears that the alignment of the door is off.  Looking along the line
> > where the door meets the sill, the top is further out than the bottom. No
> > wonder the window frame can't line up.
> > 
> >   The WSM says the (limited) adjustment is done with shims (packing pieces)
> > where the hinge meets the door pillar.
> >   Pardon my ignorance, but where is that, exactly? Behind the kick panel?
> >  I'm not seeing where any shim in the door itself would adjust the
> > top/bottom angle.
> > 
> >   So let's assume this is the trick.  Either the top needs fewer shims or
> > the bottom needs more shims. I suppose since you can't go less than zero, we
> > have to play it by ear.
> > 
> >   Comments and experience stories welcomed.
> > 
> >   WES
> >   Fate, TX
> > 
> >  > 
> 
> 

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