[Sunbeam Talbot Email List] Gas Tank Question

Martin Spurrell spurrellm at hotmail.co.uk
Fri Nov 4 05:05:04 EDT 2011

hi all,
       just to clarify my last contribution, none of us know the extent of the corrosion in ed's tank, but i did list the options open depending on how bad the situation is.
the success of how i tackled the problem on my own alpine was not based on 'a great deal of luck' but on a great deal of years experience in the motor trade. after market line filters are ten a penny,you can change them in minutes. if the problem persists and the tank bottom proves to be rotten cut it out and replace it. i have no expeirience of chemical liners but from what i hear some of these products are not compatible with modern fuels, certainly here in europe and the u.k. as for butchering the tank to remove a teaspoon of rust (as  it was  in my case) sledgehammer and nut come to mind.
                                                           martin spurrell.

Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 23:58:47 -0400
From: jb1949ers at gmail.com
To: Staowners at sunbeamtalbot.info
Subject: [Sunbeam Talbot Email List] Gas Tank Question

Hi Ed,
I used a product called Kreem. 
This can be found a www.kreem.com
It was mainly used for motor cycle gas tank coating.
I bought a truck that did not run due to rust and shellac in the tank and filters.
I heard of Kreem coating from a Harley Davidson owner.
I supplemented the product with other cleaning products.
I bought:
1 gallon of Muriatic Acid
1 gallon of Methyl Ethyl Ketone
1 gallon of Acetone
The gas tank must be removed from the vehicle, as well as, the sending unit and all hoses. 
You must be able to seal all the opening to contain the various liquids used in the process.
Kreem coating uses Methyl Ethyl Ketone in the product.
I did some research on what was in the product "Kit," and decided I would get more "Bang for the Buck," in buying the Muriatic Acid, Methyl Ethyl Ketone, and Acetone separately.
Instead of buying the "Kit," I just bought the Sealer part of the kit.
I don't know how I got away with using the motor cycle tank kit, on a 15 gallon fuel tank.
I did not know it came in larger size kits, besides, I was broke from buying the truck.
Every thing needs to be in place, as once the process starts, it does not stop until the process is finished.
So one must be prepared to start with all opening sealed except one that can be opened and resealed each time there is a new step in the process.
A garden hose must be handy with a "shut off " at the operating end.
The process starts with using Acetone to cut the Shellac build up by turning the sealed tank in all directions several times. Repeat the process if necessary.
Once the tank is emptied and inspected to make sure there is no Shellac remaining, then it is left to evaporate dry.
NOW THE NON-STOP PART: Use the Muriatic Acid (tank turned in every direction) to let the Acid dissolve the rust down to grey metal. Dump the acid out and flush the tank with water to neutralize the acid, and inspect. Repeat process if necessary. One must hurry or the raw metal will "Flash Over" with a fine rust haze, so be prepared with the Methyl Ethyl Ketone.
If it is clean, then dump a few cups of Methyl Ethyl Ketone (rotating in all directions) in the tank to absorb the water, dump the excess and repeat the process.
It is not necessary to have all the Methyl Ethyl Ketone removed from the tank since the Sealer has this ingredient already in it, so it will mix in with the sealer.
Rotate the fuel tank all around over an over again to thoroughly coat the inside, because, I heard that if there is one spot not covered, then parts of the sealant may peal off inside the tank and clog the filter and make a general mess of things.
The non-running truck had 68K miles back then, now it has 224K miles on it and no fuel problem.
This information is from years ago memory, so it is only for your consideration, before you do the research on the Kreem product.
Best of Luck to you Ed.
Jerry Sears : Jb1949ers at gmail.com 
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