[Staowners] {Spam?} Re: {Spam?} CRANKSHAFT JAW NUT

[Terry Poole]

Hi,
As you may well know, a cheaper method of producing the nut over the  
years, has been to machine it out of hex. bar stock, usually steel  
for strength, with 2 diagonal slots on the front end.
The "lead-in" flange is not required except for originality. This  
could save a few bucks!

Terry Poole. UK
On 28 Jun 2007, at 10:48, Mal Clark wrote:

> Hi everyone,for those of you that have had trouble,or when  
> rebuilding your Talbot/Alpine engine, when carefully removing the  
> crankshaft front jaw nut,(thats the large nut thats holds the front  
> crank pully in place,and also serves as the starting handle  
> dog),this nut is made of very soft Zinc ( I think ) and it has a  
> habit of coming loose,or stripping the threads.even when  
> removing,from the engine carefully, I have had three recently that  
> come off minus half the threads, I wonder if the size and hanging  
> on the end of the crank has something to do with the damage that  
> occurs with these nuts,with vibrations or the like,
>  Bob Stewart from here who you know produces rubbers for our  
> cars,has been asked to produces these Jaw nuts,which he can do, but  
> not soft Zinc but machinable Bronze, he has cast quite a few things  
> via the "lost wax" method,and can make these nuts, he was thinking  
> of 10,but the "tree" holds 30 wax moulds, so I have suggested he  
> has the 30 made, they will be in the region,of $40-45, to produce  
> including the maching,and tapping threads etc,so if anyone has  
> interest in these, at this price, please email me, the Rootes part  
> number of these Jaw nuts is P 81647, and may be able to supply the  
> nut locking washer,part no P 104872,as well.  regards  Mal Clark.
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